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A very rare mens Gübelin Jubilee wrist watch in white gold with diamond dial, circa 1954. In 1953 Lucerne based jeweler/watchmaker Gübelin partnered with Audemars Piguet to produce a line of 200 watches commemorating the brand’s centennial anniversary the following year. Several dial and case designs were produced in a multitude of metals. Of the 200, it is believed that 10 were produced in the configuration seen here – a snap back case of white gold and silver dial with applied diamond markers. For additional info on Gübelin’s Jubilee, check out our blog post here.
The present example features an 18kt white gold snap back case measuring 34mm excluding the original crown. The case is in very good overall condition with wear commensurate with age. The original satin silver dial has developed a substantial amount of caramel brown foxing and crazing. The luminous silver of the dial provides a backlighting effect that highlights the richness of the golden tropical tones. The original diamond hour markers are present and in very good condition, as are the original white gold dauphine hands and subsidiary seconds hand. The dial is signed “GÜBELIN”, “SWISS”, and features Gübelin’s applied silver hourglass logo.
Perhaps most impressive is the Audemars Piguet built hand winding VZSS caliber beating inside. The movement is hand engraved and numbered, featuring beautiful Geneva strips and generous black polishing of components. The movement features 18 jewels and 6 adjustments and is winding, running well and keeping time.
Case:
- 18kt white gold
- 34mm (excluding crown) / 40mm (lug to lug) / 18mm (between lugs)
- Original crown
- Plexi crystal
- Case number: 168919
Movement:
- Audemars Piguet VZSS
- Hand-winding
- 18 jewels, adjusted to six (6) pos.
- Serial number: 195
Dial:
- Original tropical silver
- Diamond indices
- White gold dauphine hands
- Signed: “GÜBELIN”, “SWISS”
