1943 Universal Genève with Original Bracelet
This very well preserved 1940s Universal Genève has an unpolished 31mm case with sculpted, open “hooded” lugs and a silvered dial. The dial has luminous Arabic numerals at 12, 3, and 9 and luminous dot hour markers, all aged to an even warm cream. A concentric-grained small seconds subdial sits at 6. The pencil hands are blued steel with lume inlays. Every luminous element on the dial and hands has aged to the same warm tone.
The “565” case shape is the same that Patek Philippe used for its reference 565. Introduced in 1938, the 565 was Patek’s first large water-resistant watch. Its long, sharply faceted lugs give the round case an architectural, slightly sporty look. Today the 565 is an admired and collectable vintage Patek reference. This Universal brings that design to a smaller 31mm case that wears like a classic 1940s dress watch.
The bracelet is original to the watch, and the clasp is engraved W.Y. The crown is unsigned, as originally fitted. Bracelets were usually the first thing replaced on watches of this age, so finding one still on its original bracelet is a rare treat.
About Universal Genève
Watchmakers Numa-Émile Descombes and Ulysse-Georges Perret founded the company in Le Locle, Switzerland, in January 1894 and registered the trademark “Universal Watch.” After Descombes died unexpectedly in 1897, Perret made Louis-Edouard Berthoud a partner, and the firm became Perret & Berthoud. Perret moved Universal to Geneva in 1919, and the company officially became Universal Genève in 1937. By the time this watch was made, Universal was known for its Compax chronographs. In later decades it produced the Polerouter and the micro-rotor movements that collectors value today. The house was known as “Le Couturier de la Montre”, and it remains one of the most respected names in vintage watch collecting.
Details
- Brand: Universal Genève
- Date: c. 1942
- Case: Steel, 31mm excluding crown, faceted hooded lugs in the style of the Patek Philippe ref. 565
- Dial: Silvered, luminous Arabic numerals and dot markers, small seconds at 6
- Hands: Blued steel with luminous inlays
- Crown: Unsigned, original
- Caseback: Presentation engraving dated 31 Dec. 1943, “Swiss Made,” numbered 934543 / 21030
- Bracelet: Original, clasp engraved “W.Y.”
- Movement: Manual wind [caliber / service status]
- Condition: The dial is clean, with lume aged evenly. The acrylic crystal shows light wear. The case and bracelet show honest wear consistent with eight decades of history, including light scratches and some wear on the caseback edge.
