Update – 27 April, 2021

“For years VZ powered watches from Audemars Piguet eluded the mainstream spotlight, representing a tremendous value to a small subsect of passionate in-the-know collectors. However, a recent write up by Ben Clymer in volume 5 of the Hodinkee magazine as well as robust auction results smashing estimates have proven this to no longer be the case – at least not for long. Consequently I thought it the perfect time to resurrect this piece written in 2018 and dedicated to my personal passion of Audemars Piguet VZ, as well as update it with fresh photos of some of my favorite pieces. Enjoy.”

~ Josh Rankin, Founder, Stetz & Company

Instantly recognizable by its broad 3/4 plate design, few watch movements have enjoyed as extensive a lifespan and scope of use as the 13 ligne hand winder from the Vallée de Joux.  Designed in 1916, the first Valjoux caliber 13 began life as a mono-pusher chronograph, utilizing a mechanism developed in 1846 by Adolph Nicole and Henri Féréol Piguet.  A simple calendar complication was developed on the heels of the initial chronograph, with the core design remaining in production in one of its many forms until 1974 – an astonishing 58 year run.

The movement can be found powering valuable and sought after watches from Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron & Constantin from the 1930’s into the 1960’s.  Indeed, heavily customized 13″‘ Valjoux can be found beneath brand specific designators in Patek Philippe’s reference 1518, 130, 1579 and reference 1463 chronographs, as well as Audemars Piguet’s reference 5516, 5503, 5520, and 5522, among many others.

Audemars Piguet ref. 5516
Audemars Piguet ref. 5516 (Credit: The Marcus Audemas Piguet Collection, marcuswatches.co.uk)
Audemars Piguet 5522
Unique Audemars Piguet ref. 5522 (Credit: The Marcus Audemas Piguet Collection, marcuswatches.co.uk)
Audemars Piguet 5522
Unique Audemars Piguet ref. 5522 (Credit: The Marcus Audemas Piguet Collection, marcuswatches.co.uk)

A powerful mainspring required for complicated applications and robust 3/4 plate design made it an ideal candidate for use in high precision time only watches. 

The movement was stripped of complications to its base going train, reducing friction and allowing the surplus power generated to be harnessed for increased accuracy.  Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet both utilized stripped 13″‘ Valjoux ebauches in ultra precise competition grade chronometers.  Audemars Piguet’s rare and desirable “Precision” and mnemonic “Worldtime” lines of the 1940’s utilized 13″‘ based VZAS movements.  These watches are readily identified by their use of repurposed chronograph dials, with small seconds located at 9 o’clock and text printed in the 3 o’clock blank.

1942 Audemars Piguet VZAS "Worldtime"
1942 Audemars Piguet VZAS “Worldtime” (Credit: www.bukowskis.com)
One of four non-tourbillon “Chronometre d’Observatoire” made by Patek Philippe, circa 1954 (Credit: von Osterhausen, Wristwatch Chronometers)
1944 Audemars Piguet VZ watch movement
Audemars Piguet VZSS from 1944. Note the lack of shock protection.
1956 Audemars Piguet VZSS Valjoux Vintage Watch Movement
Audemars Piguet VZSS from 1956. Note the addition of shock protection on the balance cap.
Audemars Piguet VZSSC sold in 1955.

Audemars Piguet utilized the VZ in several different configurations, each variation carrying its own alphabetic designator.  It should be noted that available information is far from comprehensive and is often published without conclusive references, thus the following list is subject to modification.  

VZ – Chronograph with minute counter 

VZC – No chronograph, calendar

VZH (1938) – Chronograph with hour and minute counter

VZQ/VZHC (1946) – Chronograph with hour counter and simple calendar

VZA – Chronograph with minute counter, calendar indicating day, date and month, moon phase 

VZHQ – Chronograph with hour and minute counter and simple calendar

VZAH – Chronograph (12 HR, 30 MIN, continuous seconds)

VZSSQ – Moon phase at 6 o’clock, perpetual calendar

VZSSQP – Moon phase at 12 o’clock, perpetual calendar

Time only:

VZS –  Time only, seconds at 6 o’clock

VZAS – Time only, seconds at 9 o’clock

VZSS – Time only, seconds at 6 o’clock

VZSSC or VZASC – Time only, indirect drive center sweep seconds

1945 AUdemars Piguet VZASC Watch
Audemars Piguet VZSSC from 1945.
VZASC from 1949 (retailed in 1952) with exceedingly rare stop-balance hack mechanism
VZSSC produced in 1943.
In 1954 Audemars Piguet produced 200 VZ for use in Gübelin’s “Jubilee” watches.
VZ produced by Audemars Piguet in 1945.
One of the last 50 VZ produced by Audemars Piguet in 1959. Note the beautiful blued Breguet hairspring.

Next generation calibers:

23 (1938) – Two pusher chronograph

230 – Fly back

23C – Calendar

72 – Hour counter

720 – Hour counter, fly back

72C – Hour counter, calendar

78 – No chronograph, calendar

88 – Hour counter, calendar, moon phase

90 – No chronograph, calendar, moon phase


References: