A fine and very rare gents Audemars Piguet wristwatch with factory black gilt crosshair dial, reference 5203, crafted in 18kt white gold in 1962.
Throughout the middle of the 20th century Audemars Piguet crafted only a handful of watches with true black gilt dials, of which this is one. Not surprisingly, because the process of creating a gilt dial was painstaking and labor intensive, it’s a practice that has been lost to time. To create a gilt dial, a raw brass dial plate was first printed in a clear masking lacquer, then a galvanic electrochemical process was used to create the deep black surface. The masking was then washed away leaving the brilliant raw brass exposed creating the striking contrast characteristic of a true gilt dial. Because of the additional skill and cost required to produce these dials, manufactures migrated away from the process, instead attempting to mimic the look by printing with gold paint over a black surface. The result was pleasant, but lacked the same brilliance and depth.
A thin, white gold bezel allows the 33mm watch to wear a touch large, a design that accommodates most wrists despite it’s modest size. Time is indicated via characteristic white gold baton hands. Signed “AUDEMARS, PIGUET”, “GENÈVE”, “SWISS”.
An ultra-thin caliber 2003 with 17 jewels and adjusted to temperatures and 4 positions powers the watch, winding, running well and keeping time.
Includes a vintage Audemars Piguet black satin lined strap with signed Audemars Piguet 18kt white gold buckle, and contemporary signed red leatherette coffin box, signed “AUDEMARS, PIGUET & Co.”, “By appointment to, H. M. The Queen, GOLDSMITHS, CROWN JEWELERS, GARRARD&Co. LTD., REGENT ST W,”, “MADE IN SWITZERLAND”.
In overall outstanding condition, the dial surface has a minor ripple at 6 o’clock that is only visible in certain light.
Case:
- 18kt WG
- 33mm (excluding original signed crown) x 18mm between lugs
- Thickness: 3.5mm
- Lug to lug: 36mm
- Case number: 29XXX
- Original unsigned crown
Movement:
- Audemars Piguet caliber 2003
- Manual wind
- 17 jewels, adjusted to temperatures and 4 positions
- Serial number: 87XXX
Dial:
- Factory satin black gilt dial
- Gilt gold minute track with crosshairs
- Original white gold baton hands
- Signed “AUDEMARS, PIGUET”, “GENÈVE”, “SWISS”.
